Southern coast – Art & Fish

We start our tour after breakfast and arrive in Capalbio about 1 hour later.

The historic center of Capalbio is surrounded by a walkable ring of walls, on which some restaurants can be found in summer. Once there, we decide whether we want to see the nice place, which is also inhabited by some artists, or go directly to our actual destination, the “Giardino dei Tarocchi”.

The “Giardino dei Tarocchi” is an overwhelming art park designed and realized by the French-American artist Niki de Saint Phalle. The impressive park is located between the hamlets of Borgo Carige and Pescia Fiorentina. Here we have about 2 hours to admire the park with all its diverse artworks and to get an incomparable insight into your work.

Then we take the scenic route via Orbetello to Porto Ercole (30 min.) And take our snack there.

After we have strengthened and looked a bit the city, we drive along the rocky outer coast of Monte Argentario with impressive panoramas. Past many small bays over to the other port of the island, to Porto Santo Stefano. From here it is also on the ferry to Giglio, if you want to make a trip there.

Back via Orbetello we take a little detour via homemade Gelati in Gelateria GUSTOCAPALBIO, Via Umbria in Capalbio Scalo or La Gelateria di Pescia Romana (two sensational regional ice cream producers), stop by the Lago di Burano nature reserve and drive over the salt pans from Albinia to Talamone.

If there is still time left, we will return to the Etruscan town of Roselle on the way back to Guarda Mare. Among the remains of the Roselle Archaeological Park are the Roman road, the ramparts, Roman amphitheater, Forum, Temple, Basilica, Etruscan and Roman houses, spas and a cistern.

If there is still time you can stop in Braccagni or Montepescali, where there are some artists. From the highway near the exit Braccagni you can see huge terracotta figures from the SS1. Or visit the GIARDINO VIAGGIO DI RITORNO of RODOLFO LACQUANITI in Montepescali. Also visit Montis Pescalis Ceramiche by Claudio Pisapia on Via Garibaldi in Montepescali.

Arrived at the Guarda Mare: We take a dip in the “Dead Sea salt” – pool, an aperitif and enjoy a dinner on recommendation of Alma at Vincenzo in IL CORSO.

Prawns, gilthead seabream, seabass, mullet, eel and even oysters are caught daily in Orbetello. The lagoon is used for the breeding of sea wolves and dorades and from Giglio come excellent lobsters  However, the oysters are very hard to find, we assume that they are used almost exclusively for their own consumption.

Traditional dishes:

Classic snacks on Monte Argentario are boiled eggs with anchovies marinated in parsley and olive oil.

Bottarga di muggine: Bottarga is a dish that basically consists of the roe of the lobster mullet in Italy. The roe is salted, pressed, dried in the sun and then covered with a thin layer of wax. Bottarga is usually grated in Italy over pasta or as a starter thinly sliced ​​with tomatoes, olive oil and lemon eaten.

Scarsella orbetellana: eggs spread especially at Easter. Sweet food whose origin is said to be Spanish.

Anguilla sfumata: smoked eel

Anguilla dorata: Eel prepared with salt, pepper, lemon juice, egg and breadcrumbs.

Risotto di Femminelle: Risotto with a kind of small crayfish Caldaro: Typical fish soup, formerly a dish for poor people

Minestra di spernocchia: Also a fish soup, Spernocchia is the dialect for the so-called sea cicadas (Cigale)

Scaveccio: so-called “poor fish”, which are deep-fried and marinated in vinegar, garlic, onions, rosemary, laurel and peperoncini, and so made palatable.

Tonnina: salted and air-dried tuna fillets

Schiaccia cipolle e acciughe: A focaccia (baked in oil pizza bread) with raw sliced ​​onions and anchovies

Pagnottella: traditional Christmas bun

Schiaccia di pasqua: typical sweet Easter biscuits baked for Easter

Coroglio all’alchermes: a kind of donut

Ansonica Costa dell’Argentario bianco

Capalbio in the variations Rosso, Rosato, Bianco, Sangiovese, Rosso Riserva, Cabernet Sauvignon und als Vino Santo (Süsswein der traditionell zu Cantucci getrunken wird)

Parrina in the variations Rosso, Rosato, Bianco

Regional Wines: “Strada del Vino e dei Sapori”

There are definitely oysters from the lagoon of Orbetello. However, it is very difficult to find them in restaurants or on the market.

The fishing farms (sea wulf (Branzino or Spigola) and sea bream (Orata)) in the lagoon is known beyond the borders of the Maremma for its high quality. They are also a bit more expensive than your Croatian relatives from the supermarket.

Liquore Argentarium: a digestive made from local herbs according to ancient recipes of the monks of the local Jesuit Convent